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Quebrada de Humahuaca Andean Potatoes

Argentina

 


 

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The Producers

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Situated at the center of Jujuy province, the Quebrada de Humahuaca is near the northern border of Argentina. The Rio Grande cuts across this dry, vividly colored landscape at altitudes varying from 2,000-3,800 meters above sea level. The great wealth of ecosystems in this region has favored the development of hundreds of edible plant species, which have been conserved and refined through the patient work of local farmers. In addition to the many varieties of potato and corn, varieties of kiwicha, quinoa, oca and papa lisa, native plants that date back to the time of the conquistadores, are commonly cultivated. These plants were often banned after the Europeans arrived because they were considered sacred and therefore seen as perilous sources of superstition and idolatry. The Andean food culture is an incredible resource, both for its genetic heritage and for its economic potential. The first signs of the selection of potatoes in the Quebrada de Humahuaca date back 4,000 years, to a time when every generation maintained the tradition of cultivating a particular type of potato and often families gave their own name to the varieties they had developed and farmed. Some communities grew a huge range of varieties of potatoes, while others specialized in seed conservation. In any case seed varieties multiplied from generation to generation and were refined through centuries of cultivation. A great part of the potato varieties once cultivated here was lost: the 70 varieties registered here 40 years ago have been reduced by more than half. The varieties of Andean Potatoes that have survived are distinguished by their flavor, color, and high protein content. Three quarter of these varieties are part of the Solanum tuberosum andigena species, though there is still a good deal of debate about whether this is, in fact, a subspecies. The presidium has identified five varieties that are farmed at an altitude ranging from 2,100 to 3,800 meters: the Papa Azul is the sweetest potato in the group and is cylindrical with dark blue skin flecked with white and yellow flesh; the Papa Señorita, which is irregularly shaped, has white skin streaked with pink and yellowish flesh; the Cuarentilla, pink skin and white flesh; the Tuni Morada is round and flat, dark skinned with white flesh, perfect for mashing; the Chacarera, with blunted ends, white skin and white flesh, is perfect for frying. This final variety has the added curiosity that it develops violet streaks in its flesh if farmed at over 3,000 meters altitude.

The Presidium
Founded in 1996, the Cauqueva Cooperative brings together 140 small producers of potatoes, oca, papa lisa and corn. The primary objectives of the Cauqueva cooperative are to improve the quality of life for inhabitants of the Quebrada de Humahuaca through the commercialization of its traditional agricultural products, technical and agricultural assistance for farmers, and farmer education. In 2002, Cauqueva was chosen as a winner of the Slow Food Award for Biodiversity and the presidium was founded at the beginning of 2004 to recognize the cooperative’s exceptional work. In the first year of activity, all Presidium producers have received the seeds necessary to dedicate a quarter-hectare of their land to the chosen potato varieties and technical assistance in the preparation of their land for seed planting and harvesting. This assistance was provided by the cooperative’s agronomists as well as by collaborating institutions such as the Agricultural Science Faculty of Jujuy University, which regularly hold courses in farming, quality production, variety selection, processing and commercialization. The Presidium promotes fresh and packaged Andean Potatoes in restaurants and on the national market and in 2007 started a project to develop a dehydrated potato purée made of Andean Potato: a product which maintains intact all the natural flavor and qualities of the Andean Potatoes.

Production area
Municipalities of Maimarà, Tumbaya, Tilcara and Humahuaca, Jujuy Province, Northeast





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